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Iraq
/ Najaf / Attractions / Ali's Tomb
Historians
say the tomb of Ali at Najaf was very likely built by
Azoud ad Dowleh in 977; that it was burnt later and
rebuilt by the Seljuk Malik Shah in 1086; and rebuilt
yet again by Ismail Shah, the Safawid, in about 1500.
No doubt numerous other hands have tinkered with it
since. The tomb has the same style as those of Kerbela,
Samarra and Kadhimain. It is a rectangular enclosure
surrounding a two-storied sanctuary, containing the
tomb, with a great dome over it. Infidels are not admitted.
The facade of Ali's tomb, seen from the main or northern
gateway, is richly beautiful- the gold tiles have darkened
handsomely with age. And through the doorway to the
tomb itself you can see the glistening stalactite effect
of mirrors and the harsh neon lights that are features
of all the major shrines of Iraq. Pink, blue and yellow
patterns of birds and flowers bedeck the archways into
the courtyard which will soon be floored with marble
brought from northern Iraq. Heavy wooden and gold doors
lead in from the street opposite the covered suq, where
you can buy 'worry-beads' (sibhas), finely worked gold
ornaments, or ankle-length cloaks for winter or summer,
some hemmed with gold braid.
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